1. Notes: 146860 / 4 days ago  from the-absolute-funniest-posts (originally from aimemente)

    paintedmischief:

    im so fucking done

    (Source: aimemente)

  2. Notes: 841657 / 5 days ago  from dutchster (originally from skinnyasianguy)
    fauxboy:

starshinethecat1:

xxgoldie12xx:

the-winchesters-in-221b:

2ollux-2hip2-2tuff:

davespritedave:

hoechlolly:

tehwhovianhufflepuff:

imagine-tenthousand:


mockinggrass:


Go big or go home 


So I tried to recreate this, because I knew the responses would be different, and consequently realized that it’s either extremely old or faked, as Cleverbot auto-capitalizes and auto-punctuates your sentences for you if you do not. Oh well.
In light of that fact, here’s my go at cybersexing Cleverbot.



So I decided to try it

alrighty, let’s go one more step





i’M ACTUALLY CRYING.

THAT ESCALATED QUICKLY


Story of my life


that’s a first.

I LAUGHED HARDER THEN I HOULD HAVE AND I WAS IN PUBLIC

I wasn’t gonna reblog this but I lost it at the last one

    fauxboy:

    starshinethecat1:

    xxgoldie12xx:

    the-winchesters-in-221b:

    2ollux-2hip2-2tuff:

    davespritedave:

    hoechlolly:

    tehwhovianhufflepuff:

    imagine-tenthousand:

    mockinggrass:

    Go big or go home 

    So I tried to recreate this, because I knew the responses would be different, and consequently realized that it’s either extremely old or faked, as Cleverbot auto-capitalizes and auto-punctuates your sentences for you if you do not. Oh well.

    In light of that fact, here’s my go at cybersexing Cleverbot.

    image

    So I decided to try it

    image

    alrighty, let’s go one more step

    image

    image

    image

    i’M ACTUALLY CRYING.

    image

    THAT ESCALATED QUICKLY

    image

    Story of my life

    image

    that’s a first.

    I LAUGHED HARDER THEN I HOULD HAVE AND I WAS IN PUBLIC

    I wasn’t gonna reblog this but I lost it at the last one

     
  3. Notes: 602126 / 6 days ago  from the-absolute-funniest-posts (originally from lilcaterpillar)

    (Source: lilcaterpillar)

  4. Notes: 235158 / 3 weeks ago  from dutchster (originally from biscuitpotato)

    Such SPEEEEEEED!

    biscuitpotato:

    trying to finish an essay thats due tomorrow more like

    image

    seeing someone smarter than you take a test.

  5. Notes: 21035 / 1 month ago  from bullshit-time (originally from chanmanthe2nd)

    chanmanthe2nd:

    i will never be able to deal with this fucking company [x]

  6. Notes: 6613 / 1 month ago  from thefrogman (originally from frogmanslightschool)
    thefrogman:

frogmanslightschool:

Exposure: The beginning of a great photoSill Level: Beginner
Getting a proper exposure is at the heart of all photography. I will now attempt to explain it in the simplest terms possible.
The Basics
You camera has a sensor.

This sensor collects light. Too much light and the image is bright or “overexposed.” Not enough light and your image is dark or “underexposed.”

There are 3 main elements that determine your exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. 
Aperture
The aperture is just an adjustable hole inside your lens that lets in light.

The bigger the hole, the more light it can let in. The smaller the hole, the less light it can let in.
Aperture is measured in f-stops. This indicates the size of the hole. Though it seems backwards, a lower number means a bigger hole. A higher number means a smaller hole.

Your lens will be rated with its maximum aperture. So if it is a “17-55mm f/4 lens”—that means f/4 is the biggest hole it can make. Most lenses can go to f/22, which would be the smallest hole it can make.
A “fast lens” is one that has a very large maximum aperture. These lenses have an f-stop of 2.8 or lower. They are great for doing photography in low light. 
A large aperture (low f-stop number) can also give you shallow depth of field. This allows you to make your background blurry to better isolate your subjects. 

This is a very desirable thing for many photographers, so they try to get the fastest lens they can. 
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed is how long your sensor is exposed to light. Think of two sliding doors in front of the sensor. They open, let in light, and then close. A fast shutter speed lets in very little light. A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds. A fast shutter speed will be a fractional value, like 1/500th of a second. A slow shutter speed can be entire seconds.
Your camera might display fractions as just the bottom number in the fraction. So 1/500th would just show as 500. Whole seconds will have a double quotation mark after. So 5 seconds will appear as 5”. 
Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but will allow you to freeze action.

Slower shutter speeds let in more light, allowing you to take images in darker environments. With a long enough exposure, you can make night look like day. 

With slow shutter speeds you risk your image blurring due to your hands shaking the camera or movement of the subjects in your photos. So if you do a long exposure, you will almost certainly need a very still subject and a tripod.
There is a formula for keeping camera shake from blurring your photo. You just put 1 over the length of your lens. So if your lens is 50mm, you need a shutter speed of 1/50th or faster. Note: This will not stop blurring due to your subject moving. 
ISO
ISO is the amplification of your sensor. Similar to the volume knob on your radio, ISO amplifies the sensitivity of the sensor so you can increase your shutter speed or make your aperture smaller. It makes the light “louder.” However, this can come at a cost. The more you amplify the sensor, the more noise will show up in your image.

Some cameras can go to a very high ISO and have very little noise. These cameras are usually frickin’ expensive. As technology advances, cheaper cameras get better and have less noise at higher ISOs.
Getting the Balance
A proper exposure requires balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get your desired result.
To get shallow depth of field you’ll need a large aperture. So you make your f-stop the lowest number possible. But that lets in a lot of light, so you need a fast shutter speed to balance it out. 
To take a long exposure, your shutter speed will now let in a ton of light. To keep from overexposing you may need to make your aperture very small so the image does not overexpose. 
If it is darker and things are moving, you’ll need a fast shutter speed and a large aperture. But you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur. So you raise your ISO to amplify the light, allow you to get the proper exposure, and keep your subjects from blurring. Yes, it will cause your image to have some noise, but it is a worthy compromise to get the image you desire. 
Photography is often about making compromises. Sacrificing a little bit of quality in one area to create the intended effect with a proper exposure. Learning this balancing act can take years to truly master and in further posts I will go deeper into how to figure out how to get the best exposure possible for any situation. 
TL;DR
Exposure is the amount of light captured on your sensor or film
Not enough light = underexposed
Too much light = overexposed
Aperture is the hole in your lens that lets in different amounts of light
A large hole is a small f-stop
A small hole is a large f-stop
A large hole creates shallow depth of field (sharp subject, blurry background)
A shutter opens and closes to expose your sensor for different amounts of time
A fast shutter speed freezes motion, but lets in less light
A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light, but can cause motion blur if subject is not still
ISO is the amplification of the sensor
HIGH ISO makes the image brighter, but creates noise
LOW ISO makes the image darker, but gives you the cleanest result
Photos by Froggie
You can find me here: [tumblr | wishlist]

This is an example of the tutorial style posts you can find on the newly launched Frogman’s Light School. Eventually, we will cover a variety of topics at every skill level, from beginner to advanced, so keep checking back.
If you’ve been wanting to brush up on your photography skills, follow along!

    thefrogman:

    frogmanslightschool:

    Exposure: The beginning of a great photo
    Sill Level: Beginner

    Getting a proper exposure is at the heart of all photography. I will now attempt to explain it in the simplest terms possible.

    The Basics

    You camera has a sensor.

    image

    This sensor collects light. Too much light and the image is bright or “overexposed.” Not enough light and your image is dark or “underexposed.”

    image

    There are 3 main elements that determine your exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. 

    Aperture

    The aperture is just an adjustable hole inside your lens that lets in light.

    image

    The bigger the hole, the more light it can let in. The smaller the hole, the less light it can let in.

    Aperture is measured in f-stops. This indicates the size of the hole. Though it seems backwards, a lower number means a bigger hole. A higher number means a smaller hole.

    image

    Your lens will be rated with its maximum aperture. So if it is a “17-55mm f/4 lens”—that means f/4 is the biggest hole it can make. Most lenses can go to f/22, which would be the smallest hole it can make.

    A “fast lens” is one that has a very large maximum aperture. These lenses have an f-stop of 2.8 or lower. They are great for doing photography in low light. 

    A large aperture (low f-stop number) can also give you shallow depth of field. This allows you to make your background blurry to better isolate your subjects. 

    image

    This is a very desirable thing for many photographers, so they try to get the fastest lens they can. 

    Shutter Speed

    Shutter speed is how long your sensor is exposed to light. Think of two sliding doors in front of the sensor. They open, let in light, and then close. A fast shutter speed lets in very little light. A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light.

    Shutter speed is measured in seconds. A fast shutter speed will be a fractional value, like 1/500th of a second. A slow shutter speed can be entire seconds.

    Your camera might display fractions as just the bottom number in the fraction. So 1/500th would just show as 500. Whole seconds will have a double quotation mark after. So 5 seconds will appear as 5”. 

    Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but will allow you to freeze action.

    image

    Slower shutter speeds let in more light, allowing you to take images in darker environments. With a long enough exposure, you can make night look like day. 

    image

    With slow shutter speeds you risk your image blurring due to your hands shaking the camera or movement of the subjects in your photos. So if you do a long exposure, you will almost certainly need a very still subject and a tripod.

    There is a formula for keeping camera shake from blurring your photo. You just put 1 over the length of your lens. So if your lens is 50mm, you need a shutter speed of 1/50th or faster. Note: This will not stop blurring due to your subject moving. 

    ISO

    ISO is the amplification of your sensor. Similar to the volume knob on your radio, ISO amplifies the sensitivity of the sensor so you can increase your shutter speed or make your aperture smaller. It makes the light “louder.” However, this can come at a cost. The more you amplify the sensor, the more noise will show up in your image.

    image

    Some cameras can go to a very high ISO and have very little noise. These cameras are usually frickin’ expensive. As technology advances, cheaper cameras get better and have less noise at higher ISOs.

    Getting the Balance

    A proper exposure requires balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get your desired result.

    To get shallow depth of field you’ll need a large aperture. So you make your f-stop the lowest number possible. But that lets in a lot of light, so you need a fast shutter speed to balance it out. 

    To take a long exposure, your shutter speed will now let in a ton of light. To keep from overexposing you may need to make your aperture very small so the image does not overexpose. 

    If it is darker and things are moving, you’ll need a fast shutter speed and a large aperture. But you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur. So you raise your ISO to amplify the light, allow you to get the proper exposure, and keep your subjects from blurring. Yes, it will cause your image to have some noise, but it is a worthy compromise to get the image you desire. 

    Photography is often about making compromises. Sacrificing a little bit of quality in one area to create the intended effect with a proper exposure. Learning this balancing act can take years to truly master and in further posts I will go deeper into how to figure out how to get the best exposure possible for any situation. 

    TL;DR

    • Exposure is the amount of light captured on your sensor or film
    • Not enough light = underexposed
    • Too much light = overexposed
    • Aperture is the hole in your lens that lets in different amounts of light
    • A large hole is a small f-stop
    • A small hole is a large f-stop
    • A large hole creates shallow depth of field (sharp subject, blurry background)
    • A shutter opens and closes to expose your sensor for different amounts of time
    • A fast shutter speed freezes motion, but lets in less light
    • A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light, but can cause motion blur if subject is not still
    • ISO is the amplification of the sensor
    • HIGH ISO makes the image brighter, but creates noise
    • LOW ISO makes the image darker, but gives you the cleanest result

    Photos by Froggie

    You can find me here: [tumblr wishlist]

    This is an example of the tutorial style posts you can find on the newly launched Frogman’s Light School. Eventually, we will cover a variety of topics at every skill level, from beginner to advanced, so keep checking back.

    If you’ve been wanting to brush up on your photography skills, follow along!

     
  7. Notes: 248783 / 1 month ago  from onlylolgifs (originally from sizvideos)

    anthramen:

    I have felt first-hand the very wrath of the Turkish ice-cream man.

    (Source: sizvideos)

  8. Notes: 320613 / 1 month ago  from thefuuuucomics (originally from niknak79)
    Such a dealer.

    Such a dealer.

     
  9. Notes: 3174 / 1 month ago  from fuckyeahspidermemes (originally from iraffiruse)

    (Source: iraffiruse)

  10. Notes: 4821 / 2 months ago  from suols (originally from dotonbori)
    dotonbori:

100 vues de la Kyoto Tower 8826 by ixus960 on Flickr.
     
  11. Notes: 132411 / 2 months ago  from dutchster (originally from wfsp)

    (Source: wfsp)

     
  12. Notes: 12431 / 2 months ago  from universalboyfriend (originally from thevuas)

    (Source: thevuas)

     
  13. Notes: 64358 / 2 months ago  from thefuuuucomics (originally from kittiezandtittiez)
     
  14. Notes: 304 / 3 months ago  from bullshit-time (originally from mogoliz)
    mogoliz:

My love for Marceline is endless ♥

    mogoliz:

    My love for Marceline is endless ♥

     
  15. Notes: 12 / 3 months ago 
    #Dantheman’s ability to give no F’s.
@danielgruchy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMjL76obRLI

    #Dantheman’s ability to give no F’s.

    @danielgruchy

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMjL76obRLI

     
avatar_128
 
 
The tumblr that was lost but then re-found. Not sure where its going at the moment.
 
 

Following

the-absolute-funniest-postsdutchstercollegehumoronlylolgifsthefrogmansuolsnolampsbaxterfilmsthefuuuucomicsbullshit-timelifehackablefuckyeahspidermemeskidgibsondamnwhatsnottoadoreunattractedachievementhunterzuniversalboyfriendinsanelygamingleopard-cubroosterteethanamanaguchidreamsnevertastedsosweetiamy0urfatherthe-moe-wallwhatupminecraft
 

Tumblr